I started the Christmas week in the cold, welcoming embrace of the waters of San Juan, La Union. And all I can say is – Hell, Yeeeeaaaahhhh!!!!
The invitation to go to La Union for a “daytrip” came around 11 in the evening. I received the text while I was still out drinking. I hurried home and quickly stashed 3 shirts, 1 suit, 1 towel, and 3 shorts in my backpack. I ran out of the house, and promptly went back in to get a few toiletries. I got in the car wearing the flimsy dress I’ve gone drinking in. And by 2AM, my friends and I started on the greatest adventure I’ve had in 2008!
The ocean has always been a magical place for me. It has always been my favorite sanctuary when the universe conspires to send its wrath my way. The rhythmic humming of crashing waves eases my worries. It reminds me that I should go out of my shell and reach out. That I am not the only one who has troubles. That someone else might need more help than me. Of course, the surf board underneath me helped me focus and harness all the optimism I can muster to finally f*ing dance with the waves and forget my sadness.
It was my first time to surf. Ever!! I was absolutely excited. I could have screamed were it not for the embarassment I’d have caused my friends. And of course I was nervous, especially when the first thing the instructor told me was to listen and follow what he said or else I might end up letting the fins of the board slice my face.
I’ve always thought that my worst enemy in learning how to surf would be my poor balancing skills. I’m just naturally clumsy, plus I’m flatfooted to boot. I found out that balancing was the least of my worries.
The first position was to lie on my tummy with my feet almost at the tail of the board. When the instructor shouts, “Ready! Go!” I’d have to push against the board and jump. Ideally, the position of the feet should be a bit perpendicular to the length of the board. I’d have to be in the middle of the board as well, making sure that my legs are not too close to each other to maintain good balance. The “push up and jump” activity required upper body strength, which I do not have because I’m a lazy bum who does not exercise. Add to that the fact that I haven’t slept and the liquor was still running through my veins. Needless to say, I spent almost the entire morning session being washed off the board (I think they call it “wiped out”).
Good thing about that morning was the cute surfer who kept encouraging me to try again. He said that the moment I get to stand up, I’d understand why he kept cutting his weekend classes to go to La Union. When I heard “classes,” my brow went up and I figured he was still in college and that I should not be flirting with a minor.
My friends and I took a break first to ease our tummies and our sore bodies. After lunch, two of them were already learning how to paddle (that was their third or fourth time to surf). Another friend, KC, was like me, a beginner, first time to surf. After 30 minutes, KC figured she’d be better off taking pictures from the shore. So I was left with my instructor, and another cute surfer with a great tan and cherry-kissed brown hair (but was quite short and just kept smiling without saying anything; my friends and I later figured he was from Japan and that his English was not that good, let alone his Tagalog).
The morning session wore my body down and so I kept falling off my board more. My instructor kept telling me to move faster. Since I did not have the upper body strength, I bent my left leg first and then used my knee at the same time that my arms started pushing my body upwards. If I were to move too slow, I’d topple over as the balance would be terribly off. Still, I was not keen on giving up. And going under did not bother me. As I’ve said, I love the ocean and I’ve always felt peaceful when I’m in the water, no matter what the circumstances are (unless, of course, if I’ve just jumped off a sinking boat or if there’s a shark or something of that sort).
And then – a miracle!! Until now, I’m not sure how I was able to do it. I just felt that if there was a time I’d learn how to surf, it would be at that moment. My instructor gave me the signal that a nice wave was on the rise. I inhaled sharply as I heard him shout, “Ready! Go!” I let my body relax and just move on its own without thinking about the sequence of steps I should ideally follow. Next thing I knew, I was riding a wave.
It was absolutely exhilarating. I felt the cold wind rush against my cheeks as the board gently glided over the water. I heard some people cheering and figured it could only either be my friends or the cute minor. I forgot how to breathe for those few seconds that I was on top. And I wasn’t just on top of the water. I felt on top of every thing I needed to conquer.
After that great ride, I figured I should follow the maxim, “Quit while you’re ahead.” I thanked the instructor profusely, and headed towards KC for some excited shrieking and high fives. The rest of our group joined us on the shore, and we sat peacefully as the sun set over the teasing waves of La Union.